A shout out to Mississippi

July 15th, 2010

What kind of people would spend their time and energy to carry a dingy old worn-out hat all the way back to Mississippi from a backpacking trip in the Smoky’s Twentymile area, contact the owner, take the hat to the post office and then use their own funds to ship it back to its owner in South Carolina? A couple of pretty special people in my book. Smokies people.

A big shout-out and thanks to two special folks, backpackers Shawn and Ethan from Meridian, Mississippi. Thanks to their above-and-beyond efforts my custom olddanwalking.com hat is now back safe and sound from its lonely temporary home at Campsite #92 in the Twentymile area, where I somehow dropped it on my long day trek up to Gregory Bald. The hat and $7.50 will get you a double mocca frappuccino at Starbucks, but it wasn’t about the money. Thanks guys!! -Dan

Visiting Andrews Bald with the boys

July 14th, 2010

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To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below:
Clingmans Dome to Andrews Bald(Opens in new window)

3.6 mile out-and-back walk to Andrews Bald in the Great Smoky Mountains. The walk starts at the Clingmans Dome parking area and visits some of the best views in the Park – July 10, 2010

Another summer Saturday meant another trip with my boys to visit a Smoky Mountains Hall-of-Fame destination…Andrews Bald. This stunning heath bald, one of two balds maintained by the National Park Service, has some of the finest views in the entire Park if you catch the right type of day. Considering it was the middle of summer when haze and fog are the norm, we would be pretty lucky with the views we saw on our walk today.

I remember visiting Andrews Bald about 5 or 6 years ago, a few years before I would decide to get serious about this walking hobby. That day I sure didn’t plan to walk 3.6 miles, showing up with no water or supplies at the Clingmans Dome parking lot in my jeans shorts and tennis shoes. But I starting walking down Forney Ridge Trail and wound up enjoying myself so much I decided to keep going. A few hours later I emerged from the trail with a new respect for 3.6 miles of walking in the mountains. This was nothing like the flat mileage I walked multiple times a week around my neighborhood. No comparison.

Photographer of the day

Photographer of the day

No complaints from the boys today about a walk in the mountains, they were ready to go. We traveled the nicely repaved Clingmans Dome Road and emerged from the cool but overstuffed Dome parking area prepared for a good late afternoon on the trail. Thomas would take over the majority of the photography duties today, and he immediately got busy snapping away at the tremendous views. I got busy trying to convince two couples from Indiana that they needed to walk the 0.5 mile up to the Dome. I can’t imagine coming this far up here and not taking the short trip.

Getting ready to roll

Getting ready to roll

Forney Ridge Trail

It’s hard not to spend the entire day sitting in the Clingmans parking area and enjoying the views southward into Swain County. I love this spot, especially in the late afternoon when the shadows roll over the mountains and the vibrant sunset colors begin to appear. But we had a few hours of walking to do, so we took the left turn just before the paved Clingmans Dome Trail starts uphill to the tower and instead started downhill on Forney Ridge Trail.

Bee balm by Thomas

Bee balm by Thomas

The first 0.1 mile graveled section of the trail descends sharply through a field of huge boulders. The wildflower show was impressive, with bee balm and a few Turks Cap Lillies being the primary showpieces. The brilliant red berries of Mountain Ash also lit up the side of the ridge. Blackberry bushes were packed full with unripe berries. At the 0.1 mile the trail intersects with the Clingmans Dome Bypass Trail on the right. Nick tackled that trail a couple of years ago but Thomas hasn’t done it yet, so we’ll come back another day. We turn left and continue our descent down Forney Ridge on the namesake trail.

The boys trekking uphill in the spruce-fir

The boys trekking uphill in the spruce-fir

The heavily-bouldered first several tenths of the descent are a difficult trek. The trail follows Forney Ridge down through the spruce-fir forest with views of the AT ridge in spots on the right. I believe there has been work on the trail since my last visit, and I don’t think the condition is as bad as it was then. It’s still no cakewalk though, with several tricky rock sections to navigate. None of the sections are thigh-busters requiring deep knee bends though, so it’s not so bad. The boys remind me that they don’t appreciate descending at the beginning of the trail….who does that sound like? 8)

The grassy fields of Andrews Bald

The grassy fields of Andrews Bald

Hall-of-Fame destination Andrews Bald

After 1.1 miles of descending we reach the intersection with Forney Creek Trail, a trail that goes right and down the ridge to eventually end at Fontana Lake 11 miles downhill. The forest here is full of mushrooms and young spruce trees, having a very closed-in feel. It must be quite a dark place at night, with no room for moonlight to filter through the packed trees. We continue on, ascending for the next few tenths before descending again and stepping out into the open of Andrews Bald at 1.8 miles. It is pretty cool to emerge from the dark, dank, closed-in spruce forest and come out onto a wide open grassy bald with views to eternity in front of you. We’re at 5728’ in elevation.

The boys check out the view

The boys check out the view

We spend a long time basking in the sun and enjoying the cool breezes rolling across the protected bald and also the incredible views. As mentioned earlier this bald is one of two in the Park that are maintained to stay free of forest encroachment. We’ve missed the Flame Azalea show by a couple of weeks, but you can still see the bright red pistils of the spent flowers all over the shrubs on the bald. It must have been quite a show. Blueberries bushes are also spotted throughout the bald, unfortunately still not ripe. We’re joined by a family with 4 small children, one of them an infant girl riding in her Mom’s caddie on her first ‘hike’. Another future hiker is born.

Sunset photo by Thomas

Sunset photo by Thomas

Too soon we leave the peaceful Bald and return into the dark spruce-fir forest for the walk back to the parking lot. As the boys have mentioned on several occasions it is the return trip that contains the majority of today’s uphill trekking, a mental hurdle that is tough for them to ignore. They grumble but I’m ok with it, because the uphill feels better on my back. Walking without the usual 20 pounds on my back has also made it an easier day for me. We make it back to the parking lot in time to see some dynamite scenes washing across the mountains, ending another exceptional day in the high Smokies. On the way home the next day we top off a great weekend with another favorite destination of mine, the Pisgah Inn, where we enjoy a great lunch.

Lunch at Pisgah Inn

Lunch at Pisgah Inn

Low elevation on our 3.6 mile out-and-back walk was around 5710’ at Andrews Bald and high elevation was around 6260’ at the Forney Ridge trailhead at the Clingmans Dome parking area.

For pics of this walk, click the link below:
Clingmans Dome to Andrews Bald(Opens in new window)

Mount Mitchell and Craggy Pinnacle

July 7th, 2010

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To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below:
Mount Mitchell and Craggy Pinnacle – Blue Ridge Parkway(Opens in new window)

The boys about to bag an SB6K peak

The boys about to bag an SB6K peak

Approximately 2 miles of strolling around the Black Mountains with my sons. First stop was Mount Mitchell State Park and then we climbed up Craggy Pinnacle on the Blue Ridge Parkway – July 5, 2010

Happy 234th America! Independence Day weekend was a chance to finally get a break from recent long hours at work and also recover from busy trip across the country. It was the first time in a long time that work would be so busy I would not have time to set foot on a hiking trail or in a touristy area. I intended to just spend the long weekend chilling out at home, but alas the pull of our beautiful eastern mountains was far too strong. Combine that with a long month since my last walk and it was inevitable…and Monday I was on the road with my two sons heading north and back to God’s Country.

In terms of hiking condition, however, unfortunately I’m still on injured reserve. So for the near future I will have to stick with short strolls with good footing and moderate climbs. Our plan for today was to head northeast of Asheville on the Blue Ridge Parkway to allow my sons to bag the highest peak east of the Black Hills on a short climb at Mount Mitchell State Park. Then on the return trip we’d stop for another short climb up Craggy Pinnacle, a heath covered summit in the gorgeous Craggy Gardens area of the Parkway near milepost 364.

Mount Mitchell State Park office

Mount Mitchell State Park office

Mount Mitchell State Park

After some unusually gorgeous July weather early in the weekend it was back to more normal conditions, and it was shaping up to be a warm day in Asheville as we headed north towards the Black Mountains. We made a quick stop for some essential 75th anniversary gear at the Parkway Visitor Center, a nice facility with some cool new interactive exhibits. This year the Parkway is celebrating its 75th anniversary, much like the Smokies did last year. The roads north of the VC are in the process of being re-paved, but fortunately there was no work going on today. We pulled in to the Mount Mitchell State Park entrance and I was relieved to see that we would be treated to an unusually clear summer day.

The Elisha Mitchell gravesite

The Elisha Mitchell gravesite

The entrance road passes the Park offices, a restaurant, and camping area on the right before reaching the summit parking area after a couple of miles. There is a nice little snack bar and gift shop at the summit trailhead, which naturally we had to check out. Hey, don’t want to miss anything you know. The parking lot was busting at the seams thanks to the extended holiday weekend. Just to the left of the snack bar is the paved trail to the summit of Mount Mitchell. I had to chuckle at the sign saying the ‘trail’ was 280 yards long. Yep, 280 yards…definitely no hero stuff on this ‘trail’.

Trekking on the Old Mitchell Trail

Trekking on the Old Mitchell Trail

Since my last visit to the summit 30 years ago the observation platform at the summit has been restored and Elisha Mitchell’s gravesite has also been given fresh stone. We bag the 6684’ summit of the eastern USA’s highest peak and enjoy the 360 degree view in the unusually clear skies. After all that peak bagging a nice dinner at the rustic, picture-windowed restaurant overlooking the summit was in order, a thoroughly enjoyable experience. After dinner we take a short stroll outside the restaurant on Old Mitchell Trail. The boys decide they’d love to come back and visit this nice trail in the spruce-fir forest at another time. Music to my ears.

Through the tunnels on Craggy Pinnacle Trail

Through the tunnels on Craggy Pinnacle Trail

Craggy Pinnacle

Just a short drive south of Mount Mitchell along the Blue Ridge Parkway brings us to the Craggy Gardens area. This popular area famous for its heath-covered rounded ridgetops with gorgeous displays of Catawba Rhododendron has separate parking areas for a Visitor Center, a picnic area, and trails. No rhodo show for us today, but we would stop at the northernmost parking lot overlooking Craggy Dome, a 6080 foot peak, for a short climb on the Craggy Pinnacle Trail.

Views from Craggy Pinnacle

Views from Craggy Pinnacle

The short, well-worn 0.7 mile trail up to the top of Craggy Pinnacle climbs away from Craggy Dome and almost entirely through a dense rhododendron tunnel. It is a pleasant experience that the boys really enjoy. There are a few trees along the way, but most are stunted or have mangled trunks from what I presume are rough conditions at these elevations. Nearly-ripe wild blueberry bushes grow abundantly amongst the cover of the rhodo. The rhododendron and laurel are about a foot or two over our heads so the only views along the trail are from one small rock outcrop. No worries though, because after about 250′ of elevation gain we reach the top where we are treated to gorgeous 360 degree views from a large rock observation platform at the summit. We linger a while at the 5892′ summit and enjoy the cloud-free late-afternoon and the cool breezes. None of us really want to leave but we reluctantly trudge back to the parking area and make the long drive home, satisfied with another beautiful day of walking around in the hills.

Craggy Dome from Craggy Pinnacle

Craggy Dome from Craggy Pinnacle

Low elevation on our roughly 2 miles of walking was around 5640’ at the Craggy Gardens parking area and high elevation was 6684’ atop the east’s highest point, Mount Mitchell. I don’t know how much overall climbing we did, but safe to say it was a lot less than usual. I can get used to these short walks.

For pics of this walk, click the link below:
Mount Mitchell and Craggy Pinnacle – Blue Ridge Parkway(Opens in new window)

Big Creek Trail

June 6th, 2010
Mouse Creek Falls

Mouse Creek Falls

To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below:
Big Creek Trail(Opens in new window)

11.6 mile out-and-back walk on Big Creek Trail in the Big Creek area of the Smokies. The walk started and ended at the Big Creek trailhead – June 5, 2010

Saying “I can’t” or “I shouldn’t” is a tough thing for an old former macho man to do. For some time I’d been planning to walk several long loops that would begin at the Big Creek Trail, a 5.8 mile gradually ascending former railroad grade tucked into the northeast edge of the Great Smoky Mountains. My desire was to walk one of those long loops, a tough 16.6 miler summiting Mount Sterling, when I headed east from Gatlinburg on the first Saturday morning of June. I wouldn’t be far into my walk when I had the realization that today I can’t, and I shouldn’t.

Tumbling Big Creek

Tumbling Big Creek

Big Creek Trail

The Big Creek Trail follows a old road/railway from the site of a former CCC camp and the Crestmont Lumber Company mill at the eastern edge of the Smokies into Walnut Bottom, also site of a former logging camp run by Champion Fibre Company. Boulder-strewn Big Creek, which the trail follows for its entire length, drains a vast watershed between two dominant Smoky Mountain ridges. To the north of the creek is Mount Cammerer Ridge, site of the fine lookout that is so popular for Smokies hikers and also the Appalachian Trail. To the south is Mount Sterling Ridge, site of a lookout tower and another extremely popular Smokies destination.

Wild Strawberry

Wild Strawberry

The trail starts with a gradual ascent above the camping area, which would not be visible from the trail today through the trees on the left. The steep ridge on the right side of the trail has areas of exposed rock, evidence of the blasting work to create a grade favorable for a steam engine. Several of the rock walls have pleasant seep areas, with water dripping down across the rocks from the ridges above and creating cool moist bogs filled with wildflowers. In one of those moist areas I spot the bright red fruit of the wild strawberry growing low to ground. Soon the creek comes into view about 80 feet below the trail on the left. Further up I spot some nice views of ridgetops to the south, which would be the only ridge views of today’s walk.

Later the trail begins to draw parallel to Big Creek and there are many areas to view the impressive waterway. Large whitish-colored boulders are the theme for this creek, and there are many deep green pools and spills and cascades. I pass Midnight Hole, one of the deep green pools that is a popular swimming area. When I return this afternoon the pool would be filled with swimmers, some diving from a boulder into the pool below.

Mouse Creek Falls

Mouse Creek Falls

Mouse Creek Falls

About 2 miles up the trail I stop to admire a large mushroom growing on the right and almost miss Mouse Creek Falls, cascading down into the creek from a ridge on the left. Glad I didn’t miss it, because this 20 foot fall tucked into a small cove is a pleasant diversion. I spend a few minutes here where Mouse Creek empties into Big Creek enjoying the cool breezes before continuing uphill. I stop for a lengthy chat with a friendly lady named Cynthia from Jefferson City, who I come to find out has a daughter that lives in my town in South Carolina. She had started out this morning with her trail-addicted husband Frank, who is close to completing his Smokies 900. She turned around but he had to continue on to catch a trail further up.

The bridge over Big Creek

The bridge over Big Creek

At about 2.3 miles the trail crosses over Big Creek on a sturdy bridge. This is another nice spot to enjoy views of the tumbling creek upstream and the large boulders and pools on the downstream side. From the bridge I watch a couple of trout swimming around beside a boulder in one of the deep green pools. Downstream are several rock cairns that folks had stacked on top of the large boulders. With the creek now on my right I pass what has to be the biggest boulder of the day, about the size of an RV, sitting directly in the middle of the creek.

Rock cairns

Rock cairns

The remainder of the climb is much the same, with nice views of the creek here and there on the right, a steep ridge on the left, occasional big trees, and a wide trail now slightly more rocky thanks to abundant horse traffic. I’m passed by the first horse riders of the day, and there would be a steady stream of them for the rest of the day. The abundant horse manure on the trail creates an obstacle course for me but attracts hundreds of swallowtail butterflies, as well as a small purple butterfly I can’t yet name.

Lower Walnut Bottom campsite

Lower Walnut Bottom campsite

Walnut Bottom

In seemingly no time at all I reach the intersection of Swallow Fork Trail. Swallow Fork Trail goes off to the left and climbs another 2500 feet in elevation to gain Mount Sterling Ridge. It is part of a loop walk I’d planned for some time, but although it is tough for me to do at this point I continue up Big Creek Trail instead of turning left. I can’t, and I shouldn’t take on this big loop in my current condition. Further up is another bridged crossing of Big Creek which takes me across and into Walnut Bottom. Directly beside the bridge is Lower Walnut Bottom campsite, a.k.a. campsite #37, which is closed due to aggressive bear activity. A short distance further up is the intersection with Low Gap I Trail, which climbs north up to Low Gap at the Appalachian Trail. That will have to wait for another day. A few tenths further up is Upper Walnut Bottom campsite, a.k.a campsite #36, which is a horse camp. Just beyond I reach my turnaround point for the day at the intersection with Camel Gap Trail.

Big Creek

Big Creek

Transition time

I do a 180 and return the way I came, bummed but realizing this is best for now. Each downhill step and misstep on a loose rock is like a knife in my back, confirming that it would not have been wise for me to attempt to a 4000 foot descent in just 6 miles on Baxter Creek Trail. Until things improve my hiking hobby will have to be modified to include easier walks. I will have to modify my focus to learning more about the trees, birds, flowers, and history of the Smokies rather than the pursuit of new miles and grueling climbs. It will be a difficult transition, but right now I can’t, and I shouldn’t. When I return to the parking lot somewhat dejected by the pain from this easy walk I glance at the Jeep beside me and notice an angel hanging from the rear view mirror with the inscription “Faith Heals All”. I manage a smile.

Tiny shrooms collected on a small stump

Tiny shrooms collected on a small stump

Low elevation on today’s 11.6 mile out-and-back walk was around 1700’ at the Big Creek trailhead and high elevation was about 3050’ at the Camel Gap Trail/Big Creek Trail intersection. The walk included about 2800’ in overall climbing.

For pics of this walk, click the link below:
Big Creek Trail(Opens in new window)

Climbing to Maddron Bald

May 23rd, 2010
Morning on Maddron Bald Trail

Morning on Maddron Bald Trail

To skip the chatter and go right to the pics of this walk, click the link below:
Maddron Bald Trail and Albright Grove(Opens in new window)

15.0 mile out-and-back walk on Maddron Bald Trail near the Cosby area of the Smokies. The walk started and ended at the Maddron Bald trailhead on Laurel Springs Road and included Albright Grove Loop Trail – May 22, 2010

One of my morning companions

One of my morning companions

After a week off to attempt to rest my ailing back I returned to the Smokies bent on exorcising my old nemesis by tackling another challenging trail. What better way to expel a demon than with a 3500 foot climb into the spruce-fir? Personally I see no better way. The twilight drive up to the hills was once again filled with Smoky Mountain magic, first with a sighting of two huge bull elk around the fence at Oconaluftee Visitor Center and later an indescribably gorgeous sunset. Ok, maybe I will try to describe it since I blew it and didn’t get a picture. Sorry in advance for the over-drama…..if you’re just here to read about my walk on Maddron Bald Trail then spare yourself the agony and skip down a paragraph.

The rains had just ended as I topped the state line ridge at Newfound Gap and began descending into Tennessee towards my overnight destination in Gatlinburg. The late afternoon storms had rained themselves out and left a 500-foot thick blanket hanging just below the 5000’ elevation Gap as they receded. As I descended rapidly and passed Morton Overlook, crammed full with awestruck photographers with tripods ready, I looked over my shoulder to see the incredible sight of brilliant orange sunbeams bursting in all directions through the spent clouds like an exploding supernova. The mountains above and below the clouds glistened with the droplets left behind by the Spring bath. The lower layer of the blanket of clouds sank rapidly into the deep spruce-filled valley in ribbons while fog from the valley below raced up in blown ribbons to shake hands with its cousin. The sky was awash in pink and purple twilight hues. It was magestic…..Any questions why I’ve become so addicted to this hobby?

A beech growing from a nurse stump

A beech growing from a nurse stump

Now back to our regularly scheduled program. As I mentioned in a prior post my options for new Smoky Mountain trail miles are getting slimmer without some major trekking or overnight backcountry visits. Compounding my problem on this Saturday was the fact that I had set an artificial 12 mile cap on my walk in order to attempt to avoid a week of ice packs and horse-pill ibuprofen. Typically I’m decent at math, but for some reason today I set out for the northeast corner of the Park without fully comprehending that 7 point something plus 7 point something, even in low gravity of 2010, is still more than 12. No worries though, at least part of it was going to be on an old road. This shouldn’t be a problem….

The Willis Baxter cabin

The Willis Baxter cabin

Maddron Bald Trail

Did you guess Maddron Bald Trail? Twenty pounds of Kashi bars for you, you’re absolutely correct. Maddron Bald Trail climbs steadily for nearly 3600 feet from the lowlands near Rocky Grove and Cosby southward and up into the pleasant high elevation spruce-fir forests on Snake Den Ridge. To get to the trailhead, I drove east from Gatlinburg and turned right onto Baxter Road just past Yogi’s Campground. There was a small parking area at the trailhead with room for about 3 cars. I was #3 today. Starting up the trail I once again was relieved to see that I will be returning this afternoon on a flat, wide, gravel road. It will be a welcome sight after 15 miles of trekking on an aching back. Several colorful snails, the long, white-flowered shoots of galax, and the tiny ground-hugging flowers of partridgeberry were the most noticeable distractions until I reached the Willis Baxter cabin a few tenths up the road. This tiny one-roomed chestnut log cabin was built in 1889 and was home for 6 despite having no windows. Where did they find room for the 51” flat screen?

Crossing Indian Camp Creek

Crossing Indian Camp Creek

I continued climbing the wide path, reaching the three-way intersection with Gabes Mountain Trail and Old Settlers Trail at 1.2 miles. I was at this spot on a muggy Saturday just three weeks ago on my Gabes Mountain Trail walk. Beyond the intersection the path is still decently wide, with a few hearty patches of poison ivy growing directly beside the trail. The climb is gradual but noticeable in the muggy morning air. Big hemlocks and poplars begin appearing on both sides of the trail. The first and only bridged crossing of today follows soon after. The long, sturdy footbridge carries me across the wide and picturesque Indian Camp Creek. Later, 3 miles from my starting point, I reach the intersection with Albright Grove Loop Trail. I will save this 0.7 mile half-loop for the return trip. I continue heading uphill along Maddron Bald Trail, crossing the intersection with the other end of the loop trail 0.3 miles further up-trail.

From this point upward Maddron Bald Trail makes a steady climb along a path that is increasingly narrow. Gone is the flat, wide grade more resembling a road and I’m now on a more typical trail, passing large tree after large tree as I climb. It is so pleasant I feel compelled to stop to take a quick movie which I title ‘Morning on Maddron Bald Trail’….

Wet booted crossings

The next segment of the trail is all about un-bridged creek crossings. I come upon the first one shortly after leaving the Grove behind. This wide crossing is the first of several fords of Indian Camp Creek, and I have no choice but to immerse both feet. The upside is I no longer worry about trying to keep my feet dry on the 3 or 4 additional crossings of Indian Camp Creek and Copperhead Branch that follow a short time later. Although some of these crossings can be trouble in high water, today each seems more pleasant than the one before, and I stop at one to enjoy watching a couple of salamanders scurry around on the rocks.

A tiny salamander

A tiny salamander

Several of the crossings have small grottos and pools formed at deeper spots and I even notice a trout swimming around. I stop to chat with a family traveling the opposite direction after they’d spent a night at campsite #29 (a.k.a. Otter Creek campsite). Like many, they’re making the popular backpacking loop out of the Cosby Campground that travels up Snake Den Ridge Trail, down Maddron Bald Trail, and then returns to the frontcountry via Gabes Mountain Trail. One of them had spotted a bear the previous night, but today once again I only find their evidence left behind on the trails and no live bears.

Indian Camp Creek valley

Indian Camp Creek valley

Further up the trail at a switchback is a small spur tucked into mountain laurel that I almost miss because it looks like it might be a drainage channel. Am I glad I didn’t miss it! The spur leads to a rock outcropping with stunning 360 views of Indian Camp Creek valley, Maddron Bald, and all the way around to the high Smokies crest to the west. I stay way too long at this gorgeous spot. Past the view spot I continue uphill along a shaded north-facing cove, the drainage of Otter Creek. The trail now is thick with rhododendron and laurel tunnels, and wildflowers encroach more and more at trail’s edge. I notice many nice specimens of false solomon’s seal, umbrella leaf, and the showy stalks of speckled wood lily. Soon I hear and see Otter Creek tumbling down below me on the left before switching back to make a wet-footed crossing of the creek, reaching empty campsite #29.

Otter Creek campsite

Otter Creek campsite

Maddron Bald and Albright Grove

Above the camp the trail climbs the side of Maddron Bald and then reaches the crest of this long ridge at a switchback. The telltale grasses of a former bald appear, as do specimens of the tiny sand myrtle bush with their showy white flowers bursting in bloom. I travel southeast along the top of the Bald and am now above 5000’ in elevation. The forest has changed to my favorite spruce-fir variety, lined on both sides by big red spruce, laurel tunnels, and the brilliant pink flowers of Catawba Rhododendron. Painted trilliums still bloom here despite having long ago gone to seed at the lower elevations. It seems just yesterday that we were dealing with a frigid winter, snow, and fallen trees, yet now we’re already about to close out the Spring wildflower season. Time flies, so get out there and witness the transformations because in a blink Spring 2010 will be over.

View from atop Maddron Bald

View from atop Maddron Bald

Climbing steadily towards the top of the long ridge that comprises Maddron Bald, the trees eventually retreat and I’m surrounded by head-high walls of laurel. I see my first wild blueberry flowers, tiny bell-shaped blooms hanging in a cluster from the small bushes. In a couple months these berries will make a nice snack for hikers, birds, and bears. This is the spot that is supposed to have great views of Mount Guyot, Old Black, and Snake Den Ridge, but the clouds are thick and there is no view for me. But I’m not disappointed because the movement of the clouds over the ridgetops and through the tall red spruce is still most enjoyable. When I return later the view does improve some, uncovering much of the state line ridge to the west. From this point I’m ready to stop climbing but I still have a few hundred feet of elevation to gain before finally reaching the Snake Den Ridge Trail intersection. Whew! Over 3500 feet of climbing, and my back feels pretty good so far. From here it’s just 0.7 more miles of climbing to reach the state line and the Appalachian Trail at Inadu Knob, but I’ll skip that trek for today. I did that section last year on my epic Mount Cammerer loop out of Cosby.

A massive poplar in Albright Grove

A massive poplar in Albright Grove

After a nice rest and lunch I return the way I came up. The downhill is much more difficult for me, as I slip constantly on the small rocks and jar my back with each pounding step. I take extra care at each creek crossing to make sure I don’t slip. I swing through the old-growth forest of Albright Grove but at this point I’m just ready to get back to the trailhead, so I’ll need to come back to do the Grove justice some other time. As suspected I’m thrilled to reach the easy walking of the flat, wide, roadbed on the last couple of miles. I make it back to my car in late afternoon, sore but thankfully not in agony. My nemesis may not be defeated, but he’s definitely taken some good shots to the body. A few more rounds and I’ll have him.

Views on the return trip

Views on the return trip

Low elevation on today’s 15 mile out-and-back walk was around 1900’ at the Maddron Bald trailhead beside Laurel Springs Road and high elevation was about 5425’ at the Snake Den Ridge Trail/Maddron Bald Trail intersection. The walk included over 4980’ in overall climbing.

For pics of this walk, click the link below:
Maddron Bald Trail and Albright Grove(Opens in new window)